1. Before mixing the patching resin, have all necessary materials and tools gathered and ready for use.

2. Inspect the canoe and mark all areas requiring repair.

3. Thoroughly clean and sand the area(s) to be repaired. After sanding, wipe with a clean rag moistened with denatured alcohol.

4. Mix the patching resin.  The resin is packaged in a plastic bag which is divided into two compartments, each containing one component of the repair resin.  Remove the dividing rod and mix the two components by squeezing the bag and working the contents from end to end.  An alternative is to squeeze the contents of both ends of the bag onto a piece of cardboard and mix with a stir stick.  The patching resin mixes and works best at 65-75° Fahrenheit.

5. After mixing the resin, use a putty knife or paint stir stick to work the resin into the scratches or gouges. Apply only enough to fill the scratch or gouge leaving as smooth a surface as possible.

6. Apply a piece of wax paper over the resin.  Lightly smooth out air bubbles and wrinkles under the wax paper.  This will leave the repair with a smooth surface, feathered edges and require very little sanding.

7. The repair should be allowed to cure overnight, or a minimum of 12 hours at 65° Fahrenheit.

8. Remove the wax paper and sand as necessary.  Use of a sanding block is recommended.  Start sanding with 80 grit and finish with 120 grit.

9. Paint with the ABS spray paint to match your canoe.

1. Dents caused by blunt impact can often be repaired with the use of heat and re-expansion of the core.

2. A hair drayer is usually sufficient to provide enough heat for this repair on an occasional basis.  If a commercial heat gun is used, use extrerne caution against overheating and blistering the Royalex.  Even a hair dryer can get too hot if left for too long in one area.

3. When "heating out" a dent, do not direct the heat at one point on the hull.  Use a back and forth or circular motion to gradually warm the damaged area.  It is sometimes desirable to linger over die deepest point in the dent to direct more heat at that area.  While heating, continuously check the opposite side (the interior of the hull).  If this gets too hot to touch or begins to deform, the hull is getting too hot.

4. Dents larger than 4-6" may require some form of support or bracing on the inside of the hull to prevent sagging or deformation.

5. When the hull returns to room temperature it is ready for use.

6. If there is a crease or wrinkle associated with the dent, it will probably not fully return with the use of heat alone.  What is left will have to be filled with the ABS repair resin (See Scrapes, Gouges and Creases).

1. It is first necessary to provide an adequate bonding surface for the repair materials.  Using a mat knife, cut away material on both sides of the tear at a 45 degree angle until the foam core is exposed.  Make a larger cut on the interior of the hull as this is where the structural repair will take place.

2. Rough up the exposed area with sandpaper.  Clean area with denatured alcohol.

3. If sides of tear do not align it will be necessary to create a framework on the outside of the hull to realign the tear.  This can be done using duct tape and / or cardboard.

4. Working on the interior of the hull, cut two or three pieces of Kevlar.  The smalllest piece should overlap the tear in all directions by 1".  The next two pieces should overlap each previous piece by 1".

5. Using a sheet of cardboard as a mixing surface, mix a batch or Royalex repair resin according to directions.  If working from quart containers, mix two parts "A" resin with one part "B" resin.  Approximately 100 g of resin will be needed for each 6" of repair.  Mix only what you will need at one time as you will have approximately 30 minutes of working time before the resin solidifies.

6. On a piece of cardboard, spread a thin layer of resin roughly the same size as the largest piece of Keviar.  Place the largest piece of Keviar into the resin and cover with another layer of resin.  Place the next piece of Kevlar (1" smaller) in the center of the previous piece and again cover with resin.  Repeat procedure for the third and last piece of Kevlar.  You should now have three layers of Kevlar that have been coated with resin.

7. Spread resin into the tear and on surrounding area that will be covered by Kevlar patches.

8. Carefully lift all three layers of Keviar at once.  Center and place over the repair.

9. Use the putty knife to cover all exposed Keviar fabric and smooth as evenly as possible.

10. Drape a piece of wax paper over repair and smooth with the putty knife.  Remove wax paper after resin has cured.  This will help smooth the repair surface and fair it into the hull suface and minimize sanding.

11. Allow the repair to cure overnight.  Once fully cured, the supporting structure can be removed and the final repair to the exterior of hull can be undertaken.

12. Mix a very small batch of resin.  Using the putty knife, smooth the mixture in the "V" shaped tear and leave flush with the exterior hull.

13. When the exterior repair has cured, both surfaces can be sanded and painted as desired.

1 . Begin by using the paint stripper to remove the interior paint in and around the area to be repaired.  Follow the manufacturer's instructions for paint removal.  After removing the paint, another thin layer of paint remover may be spread and then sanded with very course (40-60 grit) sandpaper to remove paint left in the "weave" of the fiberglass.  Use denatured alcohol to remove all traces of the paint stripper.

2. Remove all damaged fiberglass that is loose and no linger an integral part of the hull laminate.  Damaged fiberglass normally looks like white, loose, fibrous bundles.  This is most easily removed by carefully using a power grinder to sand away damaged material.  Careful use of a sharp utility knife is also effective.  Although more arduous, the damaged material can also be removed by hand sanding with extremely course 36m 40 or 60 grit sandpaper (Use of a respirator for dust & mist is essential).

3. The area being prepared should be large enough to easily accommodate the largest patch which will be applied to the damaged area (See 5).

4. If the hull has become deformed or the edges of an open crack are overlapping one another, apply pressure and / or a temporary support to the outside of the hull to restore as much as possible to the original shape.  If a broken or cracked gunwale is causing the distortion, remove or loosen the damaged section to let the hull "relax".  For severe damage, a little creativity and a lot of duct tape, cardboard and / or scrap wood may be required to bring the hull back into shape.

5. Cut fiberglass patches to fit the prepared area.  Determine how many layers are required to restore the hull to its original strength.  Generally, more layers will be required for damage below the waterline, and still more layers may be required to restore rigidity in wide, flat sections of the bottom. The patches should be cut in successively larger pieces.  The first layer should be cut to the size of the damage plus 1".  Each additional layer should be cut ½"-1" larger than the previous layer.  The edges of the patch will be easier to blend into the hull if 3-5 strands of fiberglass are removed from all four edges of the last or top layer of fiberglass.

6. Clean the surface of the damaged area with denatured alcohol.  This cleaning should be done as the last stepjust before mixing the resin.  If the work must be stopped at this point for later completion, repeat this step before continuing to avoid any chance for recontamination.

7. Mix the resin.  Use 6 cc of catalyst per pint of resin (12 cc per quart) for 15-20 minutes working time. If working in temperatures above 75°, slightly reduce the amount of catalyst to preserve adequate working time.  Try to avoid, whenever possible, varying the mix ratio.  Even though the resin will get hard and look cured, under catalyzation may result in the resin not fully developing the strength or properties that were designed into it.  The resin should be mixed in and uncoated (unwaxed) paper cup or polyethylene container (plastic milkjug).  Be sure the resin is thoroughly mixed, continuously scrape the bottom and sides of the container while stirring.

8. Use the paint brush to coat the area on the hull where the patch will be placed.  Place the smallest patch and use the brush to saturate it with resin.  The fiberglass cloth is fully saturated when its color changes from white to transparent.  Any air bubbles below the patch should be worked out at the edges.  The corrugator greatly simplifies this step and provides a superior finished product or you may use a combination of light brushing and tapping with the brush.

9. Follow this same procedure for all layers of the patch.  When working on a curved surface, it is best to follow the curve of the material.  Best results are obtained by beginning at the center of the piece and progressing towards the ends, forcing the air towards the edge of the material.  Continue rolling the material until no more air bubbles appear or there is no accumulation of excess resin.  If there is a considerable amount of excess resin rising to the surface, the excess can best be removed by rolling a dry foarn roller over the material or by blotting it with a brush.  Cleaning of the corrugator is most easily accomplished immediately after the repair or installation is completed.

Place left over resin, used containers and rags outside when finished.  These will generage heat and are capable of combustion during cure.  Brushes may be cleaned with denatured alcohol.

10. Allow the repair to cure overnight.  If outside, protect from dew or moisture.  Once the resin has gelled (approx. 2 hrs.), the canoe can be turned over for added protection against moisture.

11. After the resin is fully cured, the patch should be sanded to remore sharp and rough edges.  If desired, the repair can now be repainted.

12. Once work on the inside of the hull is complete, the gel coat on the exterior should be repaired.  This last step is important because the gel coat not only enhances the appearance, but it also provides a high degree of abrasion resistance and protection against moisture absorption for the reinforcing fibers.  Please follow the instructions for Gel Coat Repair.

1 . If damage is in a painted portion of the hull, the paint in and arouind the damaged area must be removed.  Plan to remove all the paint in an area of 6-12" around the perimeter of the damage.  The paint can be removed by sanding or with a chemical paint stripper (follow manufacturer's instnictions for the paint remover).  After removing the paint, another thin layer of paint remover may be spread and then sanded with very coarse 40-60 grit sandpaper to remove paint left in the "weave" of the Kevlar.  Use denatured alcohol to clean away all traces of the paint stripper.

2. Use of a respirator approved for dust and mist is essential for this step.  Remove all damaged Kevlar that is loose or no longer an integral part of the hull laminate.  Damaged Kevlar normally appears as loose, fibrous bundles, lighter in color than the surrounding laminate.  This is more easily removed with the careful use of a power grinder to sand away the damaged material.  Although more difficult, the damaged Keviar can also be removed by hand sanding with extremely coarse 36, 40 or 60 grit sandpaper.  Don't worry about the very fine fuzz or fibers left on the surface after sanding, these will only service to enhance the final bond with the patch.

3. The area being prepared should be large enough to easily accommodate the largest patch which will be applied to the damaged area (See 5).

4. If the hull has become deformed or the edges of an open crack are overlapping one another, apply pressure and / or a temporary support on the outside of the hull to restore as much as possible to the original shape.  If a broken or cracked gunwale is causing the distortion, remove or loosen the damaged section to allow the hull to "relax".  For severe damage, a little creativity and a lot of duct tape, cardboard and / or pieces of wood may be required to bring the hull back into shape.

5. Cut the Kevlar patches that will be required.  Kevlar cloth is difficult to cut.  For best results use a sharp pair of scissors or a utility knife with a new blade.  Determine the size and number of layers necessary to restore the hull to its original strength.  Generally, three layers are sufficient for repairs above the waterline.  More will be required for damage below the waterline, and still more layers may be required to restore rigidity in wide, flat sections of the bottom.  The patches should be cutt successively larger.  The first layer should be cut to the size of the damage plus 1".  Each additional layer should be cut 1" larger, both in width.and length, than the previous layer.

6. Clean the surface of the damaged area with denatured alcohol.  This cleaning should be done as the last step just before mixing the resin.  If the work must be stopped at this point for later completion, repeat this step before continuing to avoid any chance for recontamination.

7. Mix the resin.  Use 6 cc of catalyst per pint of resin (12 cc per quart) for 15-20 minutes working time.  If working in temperatures above 75°, slightly reduce the amount of catalyst to preserve adequate working time.  Try to avoid, whenever possible, varying the mix ratio.  Even though tile resin will get hard and look cured,. under catalyzation may result in the resin not fully developing the strength or properties that were designed into it.  The resin should be mixed in an uncoated (uinwaxed) paper cup or polyethylene container (plastic milkjug).  Be sure the resin is thoroughly mixed, continuously, scrape the bottom and sides of the container while stirring.

8. Use the paint brush to coat the area on the hull where the patch will be placed.  Place the smallest patch and use the brush to saturate it with resin.  The Kevlar is fully saturated when it turns a uniform darker shade of yellow.  Any air bubbles below the patch should be worked out at the edges.  The corrugator greatly simplifies this step and provides a superior finished product or you may use a combination of light brushing and tapping with the bnish.

9. Follow this same procedure for all layers of the patch. When working on a curved surface, it is best to follow the curve of the material.  Best results are obtained by beginning at the center of the piece and progressing towards the ends, forcing the air towards the edge of the material.  Continue rolling the material until no more air bubbles appear or there is no accumulation of excess resin. If there is a considerable amount of excess resin rising to the surface, the excess can best be removed by rolling a dry foam roller over the material or by blotting it with a brush.  Cleaning of the corrugator is most easily accomplished immediately after the repair or installation is completed.

Place left over resin, used containers and rags outside when finished.  These will generage heat and are capable of combustion during cure.  Brushes may be cleaned with denatured alcohol.

10. Place wax paper strips around the edges and use fingers to smooth the resin below.  This will help to leave a smooth edge which will require very little sanding.  Remove the strips after 1-2 hours.

11. Allow the repair to cure overnight.  If outside, protect from dew or moisture.  Once the resin has gelled (approx. 2 hrs.), the canoe can be turned over for added protection against moisture.

12. After the resin is fully cured, the patch should be sanded to remore sharp and rough edges.  If desired, the repair can now be repainted.

13. Once work on the inside of the hull is complete, the gel coat on the exterior should be repaired.  This last step is important because the gel coat not only enhances the appearance, but it also provides a high degree of abrasion resistance and protection against moisture absorption for the reinforcing fibers.  Please follow the instructions for Gel Coat Repair.

1 . Wet sand with the finest grit required to remove the scratch.  Deeper scratches may require 220 grit sandpaper to start.  Use generous amounts of water applied to both the hull and sandpaper and sand with a back and forth motion.  Continue to sand with successively finer sandpaper until the scratch is removed and you have worked "up" through 600 grit.  A good general rule is that you should sand longer with each finer grit of sandpaper (i.e. if you spend five minutes sanding with 220, plan to spend 10 minutes sanding with 400 and 15-20 minutes with 600).  This will help insure that there are not heavier scratches remaining from the previous sanding.

2. After sanding through 600 grit, polish with the rubbing compound.  Use a damp, soft cloth to apply the compound.  Use plenty of pressure (elbow grease) and rub briskly.  The more effort expended, the better the finish.

3. Finish by buffing with a clean, soft cloth.  Wax or 3O3 Protectant may be applied to finish the job.

Note: Use of a power buffing wheel and commercially available polishing compounds will greatly enhance the gloss of the repair and the entire hull if desired.

DEEP SCRATCHES AND CHIPS:

1. Lightly sand around the area to be repaired.  Sand with a back and forth motion in one direction.

2. Check to be sure that the gel coat around the damaged area is solid.  If any gel coat is loose, it should be removed by carefully "chipping out" with a knife or putty knife.  Resand to eliminate any sharp edges.

3. Use denatured alcohol to clean the repair area.

4. Mix the gel coat.  It is best to mix small amounts.  A teaspoon of gel coat is normally all that is required for small scratches or chips.  Use two drops of catalyst per teaspoon.  Mix thoroughly.  This should allow for 10-15 minutes working time.

5. Apply the gel coat to the damaged area.  Several applications may be required as the gel coat will shrink as it cures.  Allow at least 1hour between applications.  The previous application should be hard to the touch before reapplication.  Continue to apply the gel coat until the scratch or chip has been slightly overfilled.

6. Allow to cure 4-8 hours.

7. Use the sanding block to wet sand the repaired area back to the original hull surface.  Continue to "sand up" through the finer grits and finish as described under Shallow Scratches.

GEL COAT CRACKS AND MORE SEVERE DAMAGE:

1 . Prepare area as described in steps 1-3 under Deep Scratches and Chips.

2. In the case of a crack, the surrounding gel coat must be removed back to the underlying laminate.  This can be accomplished by using the edge of a file.  Be sure to follow the crack all the way to its ends.  Failure to do so will result in the crack continuing to travel even after repair. When finished filing, the crack should look like a V-shaped channel with the laminate exposed at the bottom.

3. Mix and apply the gel coat as described in the repair instructions for Deep Scratches and Chips.  In some cases where larger amounts and a great thickness of gel coat must be appllied, it may be desirable to thicken the gel coat.  This can be done by adding talculm powder or powdered wood putty to form a paste that can be spread in a thick layer.  This should be done only after the gel coat has been catalyzed.  Gel coat applied in thicker layers will shrink more.

4. Use the sanding block to wet sand the repaired area back to the original hull surface.  Continue to "sand up" through the finer grits and finish as described under Scratches.

Kevlar® Skid Plate Instructions

Recommended Safety Equipment:
NIOSH approved respirator with organic vapor cartridge
Safety goggles / glasses

Important:  Read instructions all the way through before beginning installation.  Resins have a limited 'working' time once the resin and catalyst are mixed.  Realizing that you are missing some needed item after you have mixed the resin can result in the resin curing before application.  Working time will vary depending on temperature and humidity.  Higher temperatures (above 75° Fahrenheit) will shorten resin working time.  High humidity can interfere with the quality of the resin cure.  It is essential that you have all tools and materials organized and at hand.  If you have any questions, get the answers before you start.  Should you need additional information, please contact your factory authorized repair center.

**Note** Skid plates can be installed on Royalex, Kevlar, or Fiberglass but not "plastic canoes" as no existing resins or adhesives will bond to plastic.  RE: "plastic canoes" are made of Superlink3™, PolyLink3™, or any other Linear plastic polymer.

1. Collect and organize all necessary items.

2. Place the canoe, rails down, on a suitable work stand, such as saw horses.  Place the supports so that they are located at least three feet from each end.  Later the canoe will be flipped over and there will need to be approximately three fee of clearance so the sawhorse will not contact the freshly installed skid plates.


3. With the canoe upside down, place a mark on the stems to mark the beginning of the skid plate.  (A piece of masking tape works well.)  Normal placement for the beginning of the skid plate is six inches below the gunwale or top of the canoe (see diagram).  This may be adjusted up or down to fine tune the degree of abrasion protection along the keel, or the amount of impact resistance in the upper part of the stem.

Standard Placement of Skid Plates

Placement is 6" below gunwale

4. Position the Kevlar Skid Plate on the hull with the narrow end positioned at the mark on the stem and keel line of the canoe.  Continue to pull and smooth the material until the felt conforms to the compound curves around the end of the canoe.  Tape the back end of felt to hold it in place.

5. Trace around the skid plate using a washable or non-permanent marker.

6. Remove the felt and thoroughly sand the area where the Skid Plate is to be applied. Use 80 grit sand paper.  Sand until all the shine is removed from the hull within the outline of the skid place.  Do both ends of the canoe.

7. With denatured alcohol, thoroughly clean the sanded area.  Be very careful to avoid contaminating the prepared area with dirt, dust, oils, grease or wax.  If actual installation is planned at a later time, repeat cleaning just before installation.

8. Mixing resin:  Proceed carefully at this point.  The skid plate resin must all be mixed and used at one time.  The formula is very precise and there is no margin for error by varying the amounts mixed.  Be ready to install both skid plates.  Get both in place before starting finishing work.

a. Pour the contents of the large can (Part A) into the clean, large size mixing container.  Carefully add the entire contents of the small can (Part B).  Stir this mixture for several minutes until it is uniform in color and viscosity.  It is important that parts "A" and "B" are thoroughly mixed or a complete and proper cure will not occur.

b. Note: Once the two components have been mixed there is approximately a 30-minute work period before the resin starts to set.  This is working in an optimum air temperature of 68-75° F.  If the temperature is above 75° the resin will set faster, and if air temperature is lower temperature it will take longer to set.  Application or installation should not be attempted at temperatures below 50°.  If you wish to extend the working time, after mixing the entire contents of both containers, pour half the batch into another container.  (Two smaller batches will set slower than one large batch).  Work out of direct sunlight; solar heating will reduce the working time.

9. Pour about half on the center of the cardboard.  Use the roller or the brush to spread the resin to approximate width and length of the felt.  Place the felt in the resin and use the roller to saturate the felt from the bottom up.  When the coloration is uniform, the felt is fully saturated with resin.  Carefully pick up the wet felt with wide end up and place it on the hull.  Placement should start at the lower mark, with felt draped toward the middle of the canoe.  Repeat the process with the second felt.

10. Work out any wrinkles or air bubbles in the felt using a brush that has been soaked in resin, working from the center line to the edges.  Switch back and forth from felt to felt, working on each rather than concentrating on just one.  The Corrugator greatly simplifies this step and provides a superior finished product.  The corrugator will make the installation of Kevlar skid plates easier, stronger, and more professional.  It removes air that can be trapped between the plate and hull, which can impair the strength and bonding between hull and skid plate.  The corrugator is to be used after you have "wet out" your patch or skid plate and placed it in position on the hull.  Before using the corrugator be sure that the grooves are clean.  Then starting at the middle of the skid plate or patch, roll the cornigator across the material, applying a steady, even pressure.  It is better to apply a consistent pressure rather than to press too hard. When installing skid plates, it is best to follow the curve of the material.  Roll the corrugator across the skid plate at a 90 degree angle to the long axis of the skid plate.  Best results are obtained by beginning at the center of the piece and progressing towards the ends, forcing the air towards the edge of the material.

11. Continue rolling the material until no more air bubbles appear or there is no accumulation of excess resin.  If there is a considerable amount of excess resin rising to the surface, the excess can best be removed by rolling a dry foam roller over the material or by blotting it with a brush.  Cleaning of the corrugator is most easily accomplished immediately after installation.

12. When wrinkles and bubbles are removed, squeeze excess resin out of the brush, then use the brush to smooth away any rough edges and loose fibers on the perimeter of the felts.  Alternate your attention from stem to stem allowing a few minutes for excess resin to run away from the edges.  Wipe away runs and drips with a clean rag and denatured alcohol before resin cures.

13. Once the excess resin has been wiped away, turn the canoe over, allowing the resin to cure in this position to prevent runs.  It should be dry to the touch after six hours but full cure takes 24 hours.

14. Be sure to dispose of any left over activated resin, used containers, etc. properly.  If installation was done inside, remore all such materials outdoors until resin has cured as they will continue to give off vapors and may continue to give off heat until fully cured (24 hours).

15. If desired, the felts can be wet sanded to remove any fuzz and to further smooth the textured surface for slicker entry and exit lines.  Do not sand too heavily as the Kevlar fibers will fuzz.  Use 80 to 100 grit wet / dry sandpaper.

16. The skid plates may be painted to match the canoe hull color using Royalex Paint.  Tape off the felt and shield the hull by draping paper over ends around the felt and taping in place.  Several light coats of paint will produce a better and more durable finish than one heavy coat.  Sand lightly between each coat for best results and finish.

Kevlar Skid Plates will not make the canoe "indestructible" but will add a great deal of abrasion and impact resistance to the canoe, as well as presenting a better appearance, especially after years of use.

The best canoe storage is upside-down in a cool, dry place.  The canoe must be off the ground.  A rack or sawhorses work well, but some protection can be obtained by using blocks.  If you want to suspend the canoe from above, make sure the canoe's weight is resting evenly on the gunwales.

Do not store heavy objects on top of the canoe, and do not store a canoe on its side.  Both will cause the hull to deform over time.  If it will be exposed to wind, make sure your canoe is securely tied.  Inside storage is preferred -- it protects the hull from temperature extremes and exposure to rain or snow.  Do not store your canoe near a direct source of heat (e.g. a furnace): high temperatures are as detrimental as extreme cold.

If outside storage is necessary and a cover is desired, some precautions are needed.  Make sure the cover will withstand snow loads or heavy rain.  A plastic cover will protect the canoe from light precipitation and exposure, but do not allow the plastic to touch the hull.  Leave the downwind end open for air circulation; moisture trapped between the cover and the canoe will discolor the hull.  Some gray weathering of the gunwales will occur with outside storage.

If a Royalex canoe with wood gunwales will be stored in near or below freezing temperatures, the Royalex material, which has a high shrink coefficient, must be given ample room to contract.  To do this, loosen all the inside gunwale screws several turns.  Then remove the four screws on the outside gunwales on each side of the bow and stern.  Lift up the deck (the inside gunwales will still be attached), and from the ends of the canoe sandwich a thin piece of wood between the gunwale / deck assembly and the top of the hull at both the bow and stern.  Failure to perform this procedure can result in a cracked hull.  In the spring, remove the pieces of wood, lower the gunwale / decks in place, replace the screws, and tighten all screws, including the inside gunwales.

Sling your kayak with 3" wide webbing around the bulkheads, on it's side (not flat as it will distort the hull) and store it out of the sun.  Leaving your boat outdoors in cold weather is okay, but be aware that it will be brittle until it has warmed up.